Being a surfer is much harder than it looks when
you watch Kelly Slater doing those 360°s in Indonesia. Cornwall’s
a bit colder. Also, if you’re not Kelly Slater (quite likely),
you tend to get more water up your nose and a greater percentage
of the little-known phenomenon: ‘Board-on-the-head’.
If you want to be cool like Kelly, just follow
these handy hints which should help you avoid, at the very least,
death or permanent injury/dismemberment:
1. Get the coolest board
possible. It doesn’t matter whether you can surf it or not
- just what you look like on the beach. Once you’ve made
it into the water, you can always just paddle out the back and
sit meaningfully on your board, staring out at the horizon for
the next ‘big set’. Make sure though, that you practice
sitting upright on your board before you get into the line-up
– if you attempt this and fall off straight away, your cover’s
blown.
2. Develop some aggression.
(If this doesn’t come naturally to you, visit the nearest
pasty shop at lunchtime in mid-August, preferably when you haven’t
eaten for at least 48-hours). Aggression is vital for maintaining
your position in the line-up. Make sure you also apply the appropriate
surf terminology. If someone paddles round you, complain loudly
about being “snaked”. And if someone drops in on you,
consider ramming your board into theirs and then demanding they
pay for your “ding” (note: this approach is only really
worth it if your board is crap / hired / 3¨ thick. And if
the person is considerably smaller than you). NOTE FOR GIRLS:
If you start your session jogging towards the waves with a shortboard
under your arm, none of the above is usually necessary.
3. Give the impression at
all times that everything is deliberate. If you drop in on someone,
tut loudly as you pull off the wave (if they’re a tourist,
this should scare them onto another part of the beach. If you’re
a tourist, pretend it’s time for lunch and get the hell
out of there). If you wipe-out mid-ride, try and make it look
as if the ride was just too boring to bother with – you
only want the big waves, man.
4. Learn to duck-dive. This
is technically a bit harder than actually catching a wave, but
avoids that awkward moment where you’ve been smacked in
the head by a breaking wave, thrown your board away in panic,
knocked someone else off their board and started gushing vast
amounts of blood from your nose. If you’re not sure how
to duck-dive, consider not going in the water at all. You will
lose all credibility before you’ve even fallen off your
first wave.
5. Get the right kit. Make
sure your wetsuit is from a cool supplier and that there’s
no hint of day-glo. If you must surf in winter, don’t feel
shy about wearing a hood – all the best surfers wear them
and there’s no general association with S&M. Wear a
rash vest to avoid that love-bite look on the neck and invest
in a pair of boots so that when you step on a jellyfish nobody
has to drop their pants and pee on you.
6. Don’t forget to
wax your board. There’s nothing like turning for a wave
and popping up, only to slip straight off again (this normally
precedes a broken nose / tooth). Just remember to wax the right
side.
7. Don’t ever finish
your session with a round of pasties or ‘Real Cornish Ice
Cream’. Only tourists prefer to get ripped off this way,
and it’s normally imported from Watford anyway.
(And just remember, if you really want to be
Kelly, dating a Pamela Anderson lookalike won’t make up for
the fact you can’t surf. Just call it a day and buy a bodyboard
instead).